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Traditional
and Mbaco
Traditional
These outfits are
worn on special occasions. Such occasions could be weddings,
funerals, Mgidi's and for the rural Xhosa this could also mean a
trip into town.
Mgidi's is the “coming home” ceremony of the Makwetha.
Makwetha is the name given to a young male initiate into
manhood. These young men are sent into the bush to fend for
themselves and be schooled by the elders into the traditions of
manhood. At this time they are also circumcised. The outfits are
worn by the married women of the tribe – especially the mother
and grandmother whose outfits must be “the best”.
They basically comprise of variations of the following:
Mbaco.
The Mbaco forms the basis of Xhosa woman’s traditional wear.
This is a wrap around circular skirt made from fabric called
Ibhayi – also called Nu Soza.
The fabric is
derived from hemp (wild cannabis) and was originally
manufactured for the shoe industry. It is therefore very
durable. Initially it was only manufactured in its natural cream
colour but today is available in an assortment of colours and
has become a range in its own right. This skirt is both
flattering and elegant and can be worn universally.
These skirts are
made from the Nu Soza fabric and are decorated incorporating
some of the traditional mediums used originally by the Xhosa
women i.e. the decorative braiding done around it. It is also
sometimes adorned with beads, mother-of-pearl buttons, shells
and bells. To own such a skirt is the desire of every Xhosa
woman.
Due to the cost of the fabric and the labour involved they are
becoming more and more rare in their original form. At
YiZakubona Fashions we remain true to the original concepts but
bring out the universality of these beautiful garments.
Ncebetha.
Married Xhosa women would cover their breasts with an Ncebetha.
It is best described as a marriage apron. It is normally
differently braided from the braiding on the skirt. Nowadays a
shirt is worn under the Ncebetha but in the past the woman would
paint the exposed part of their bodies with white or orange
clay. People living in the Transkei area dyed the fabric too,
using colours from local plants. The main colour was deep ocher.
They became known as the “ocher” or “orange” people.
Ibhayi.
The shawl. This item was given the same name as the fabric from
which it was made. The Ibhayi wraps around the shoulders and
would also be used to secure a baby onto the back while working
or visiting. A second Ibhayi, if worn, goes round the waist over
the skirt. The Ibhayi would also be ornately braided and
decorated with beads and mother-of-pearl buttons. In addition
young women would sometimes wear a Faskoti - an apron worn when
doing housework so as not to dirty the outfit. The faskoti would
be made from Shweshwe print.
Iqhiya.
Colloquially known as the doek. The best English equivalent
would be in this instance a headdress. The Iqhiya is the main
part of the headdress and will either complement the outfit or
contrast it. With the iqhiya they sometimes wear a Santulo –
which is made up of different colours and adds volume to the
headdress. In Africa the bigger the headdress the more beautiful
the woman is.
Ngxowa.
This is the bag. The original bag was rectangular in shape with
a drawstring to close it and a shoulder strap. They are also
braided and beaded to match the outfit. . Women who had reached
menopause and stopped menstruating achieve the same status as
men and could smoke a pipe and attend beer-drinking festivals.
So like the men they would carry their pipe, tobacco and matches
plus other useful objects used in a days work. Today’s ladies
carry cell phones, calculators, make-up spectacles etc. |
